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How to make homemade beer .pdf

Original filename: How to make homemade beer.pdf
Title: How to make homemade beer
Author: shaun hazon

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As promised your free step by step guide to making homemade beer
using equipment found around the home

14 days to your
own homemade

How to Make Home Made Beer,
Beginning the Process
Thinking of making your own beer, a good, deep, rich, homemade brew,
what’s holding you back?
Perhaps you’re not sure of the cost of materials and ingredients, or, maybe you’re worried
how it will turn out.
Don’t worry the solution is here for you right here and now.
Firstly, as far as the taste and flavor of your home brew, I have always firmly believed there
is no such thing as a bad beer, just different tastes for different folk.
Secondly, you can brew a really decent and reasonably simple homemade beer, ready in
just 14 days, using equipment and materials, you and your friends, can find in your kitchen,
or, about the home.

Let’s look at what you will need

Brew pot - Any large kitchen pot that can hold about 3 gallons.
 Kitchen strainer - for straining grains and hops.
 Thermometer - an ordinary kitchen thermometer will do.
 Large funnel
 Rolling Pin – for crushing grain
 3 gallon container of bottled water – the water will be used to make the beer
and the container will be used as the fermentation container.

Bottling container – an empty water container or scratch free food grade plastic
bucket, capable of holding 3 gallons.

3 feet of 3/8 inch clear poly vinyl tubing – for syphoning and fermentation air

Bottles – you are spoilt for choice here, but, I will give you some tips later.

That’s all the equipment you will need, now you have time to call up your mates if there is
something you don’t have, get permission from the wife or girlfriend, to take over the
kitchen, or, indeed, if you are the wife or girlfriend, make sure the know it all partner is out
from under your feet.

Don’t forget if you have all the equipment your only cost will be for the

How to Make Home Made Beer
Ingredients and Brewing Procedure
Before I continue I need to remind you about sterilization, it is extremely important that
everything you use during the beer making procedure is thoroughly cleaned. A solution of 1
tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of water is the recommended sanitizer, rinse with tap
water after cleaning anything and keep as sterile as possible.
Today you will be making two and a half gallons of homemade ale, most recipes are for five
gallons but this is the perfect starter for you.

The list of ingredients

3lbs of light dried malt extract.
8oz of crushed crystal malt.
1oz of Northern Brewer Pellet Hops.
1 Package of brewer’s yeast.
3/8th of a cup of sugar.

First Crush the Grain
Use a strong, heavy, plastic bag (freezer bag is good) Pour 8oz of the crystal malt, a little at a
time, into the bag. Use the rolling pin to crush it, not too fine, just a coarse texture of
broken grains.
Remember you are using tools you have to hand; regular home brewers have purpose ready
tools such as a malt mill when they make beer.
Now for Steeping
This is the procedure for getting the goodness out of your specialty grains (the crystal malt)
Pour half a gallon of water out of your container and make a clear mark of the new level to
show you where the two and a half gallon level will be, pour out the remaining two and a
half gallons into your nominated brew pot, making sure you have at least 3 inches clear of
the top of the pot, add your crushed grains.
Apply a medium heat and see if you can bring the temperature up to 150 to 155 degrees
(use your thermometer) once you have reached the correct temperature turn off the heat
and cover the brew pot. Allow it to stand for 30 minutes then, use the strainer to remove as
much of the grain from the liquid as you can, if there are a few odd grains left over don’t
worry as that is acceptable.

How to Make Homemade Beer
The Brewing Process
This is the follow on to the instructions on how to make homemade beer; you have now
reached the Boil section.

The Boil
Once you are satisfied you have removed as much of the grain as possible, re-apply the heat
and bring the pot to the boil.
Once boiling remove the pot from the heat, stir in the malt extract and then return the pot
to the boil. At this stage be very careful, keep a close eye on it as you must avoid it boiling
over, or be prepared to clean up one awful sticky mess.
When you have a controlled boil add two thirds of an ounce of the hop pellets and maintain
a controlled boil for 60 minutes, to get a good bittering result. You can put your kitchen
strainer in the pot to sanitize it for later, if you wish. When the 60 minutes are up turn off
the heat add the remaining hop pellets, cover it, and allow to sit for 10 minutes

Air lock
The principal of the air lock is to allow carbon dioxide, produced by the fermentation
process, to escape, while keeping the air outside from getting in.
A regular home brewing enthusiast would use a commercial air lock at this stage but, you
can make one from a piece of (sanitized) clear vinyl tubing, one end fitted to the bottle cap,
the other end, submerged in a cup of water. You can purchase a commercial air lock, if you
wish, as they are very cheap and, this could make things a bit easier, but the choice of
method is entirely yours.

Cooling the Wort (pronounced wert)
Wert basically how you refer to your unfermented beer.
Fast cooling works best, partially submersing the brew-pot in a sink or bath of cold water is
good, adding ice while it is in there is even better, the faster it is cooled the better the

result. Gently swirl the brew-pot in the cold water, once the sides are nice and cool you are
ready for the next step.

I must remind you about sanitization, when I began the guide I told you how
important it was to make sure everything was sanitized, It is extremely
important to remember , anything coming into contact with your cooled wert
must be sanitized.
Gently pour your cooled wert through your sanitized strainer and funnel, into your
fermentation bottle. There must be two and a half gallons in the fermenter if you have lost
any liquid during the boiling, then, top it up to the mark you made on the fermenter
(remember you were told to mark it clearly in an earlier step)
You are now coming to the final steps of making your first home brewed beer.

Pitching the Yeast
This is the phrase for adding brewing yeast to the unfermented wert.
When the wert is at room temperature you can pitch the yeast, be sure it is at room
temperature. Add only half the package of yeast in to the fermenter, you can save the rest.
If you have doubts on how to measure exactly half a package, remember a tiny bit more is
better than less.
For the next 7 to 10 days the yeast will react with the sugar in the wert converting it into
two products , alcohol and carbon dioxide, the carbon dioxide will escape through the air
lock and the alcohol will remain in the wert. Put the fermenter in a cool dark place, after 12
to 24 hours you will begin to see foaming and bubbling escaping from your air lock, and,
after 7 to 10 days, you will be ready for the next step.

Congratulate yourself, you now have beer, there is still a little more to do
because if you drank it now it would be flat.

Priming is the word to describe adding a measured amount of additional fermentable
sugars, this is done before bottling as a reaction will take place between the yeast and the
sugars resulting in a gas build up which needs to escape (trapped in a bottle would result in
an explosion )

Boil 3/8th of a cup of sugar in one cup of water for 5 minutes, then allow it to cool, pour this
into a sanitized container which is large enough to hold your home made beer (a second
empty water container or large catering bucket) Syphon your beer from the fermenter
container into your new container, now to be known as your bottling container. Try not to
disturb too much sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Your beer is now ready and
waiting to be bottled

The Final Instructions
If you have followed the home made beer recipe and guidelines this far, Congratulations, It
is now time to bottle your wonderful homemade beer produced with your own fare hands.

Experienced home brewers will normally have pre-purchased brown beer bottles and caps
to fit; some will even have their own kegging system to keep their beer in cask condition.
During your 7 day wait for your beer, you too, could have gone out and bought some bottles
and caps and, of course, a tool to press fit the caps known as capper. Alternatively you could
use old soda bottles with caps, champagne bottles, or growlers, from your local pub/bar; in
fact you are spoilt for choice.
I must remind you again, SANITIZATION, is paramount soaking the bottles and caps in a
diluted bleach solution for 30 minutes and a rinse under clean tap water should be fine.

Bottle conditioned beers must be aged in the bottle for at least 7 days to allow fermentation
to take place to carbonate the beer. Go ahead and bottle your homemade beer then place
your bottles in a cool dark place for about 7 days, don’t put them in the fridge yet or you will
ruin all your hard work, as you wait the beer in the bottle will begin to clear as suspended
yeast settles to the bottom.
When your bottled beer has aged, place a few bottles in the fridge to chill. As soon as you
are ready open a bottle and pour it slowly and gently into a glass leaving just a bit in the
bottom of the bottle, now go ahead and taste it, roll it around your pallet savor it as you
I hoped you enjoyed making homemade beer and perhaps I have given you the enthusiasm
to try another, go on my friend please feel encouraged to KEEP ON BREWING

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