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Amigurumi Mitsu

BBT027

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Usagi-Chou

Hanaki

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton
www.bluebearytreasures.com
1

Koneko

(830) 896-9616
bluebearymailbox@aol.com

Note – Animals are about 2.5 inches tall, not including ears.
General Materials List: Also see individual instructions for each amigurumi. You
can mix and match colors, eyes, and wings for many different looks.
• Embroidery Punch Thread or equivalent wool or cotton thread (See thread
comparison chart at end of pattern to help you choose equivalent threads.)
• Size 12 hook
• Two eyes
• Black nylon thread, for attaching eyes
• One ¾" cotter pin, one ¼" disk, and one 3/16" disk (you can cut a 3/16" circle
from plastic if you don't have a disk. Punch a hole in the center with a pin.)
• Fiberfill for stuffing
• Embroidery floss – for features
• Nylon thread or other strong thread, in color to match the body, for jointing
Note: Some upholstery threads can be too bulky for working in this scale, making
it difficult to get a tight joint.
• Sewing Needles: 2-1/2-inch (6 cm) darner, beading, small tapestry
• Small hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
• Fine tip black marker, such as Micron for shading around eyes
• Watercolor pencils for shading -- rose pink, blue, and colorless blender
(Prismacolor used for model) (You can use powdered eye shadow and blusher
as a good alternative.)
Materials for Fairy Costume:
• Size 12 perle cotton or size 30 crochet cotton – Main Color (MC), Contrasting
Color (CC) and Green
• Size 12 crochet hook
• Glittery nail polish to match wings (optional)
• 1" (2.5cm) straight pin for wand
• Star button, charm or jewel for wand tip
• Wire cutters
• Glue, such as Gem-Tac
Special Instructions:
Adjustable Ring
Grasp the thread between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a tail at the
beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise, crossing
the thread at the top of the finger. Press your middle finger on the loose end of
the thread to hold it as you insert the hook underneath the thread that you just
crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop up from
underneath the front thread. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working
end in the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches
required into the ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made
with the right hand and tail with left, pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long
loop and tighten back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first
chains worked and continue working pattern, skipping the ch-1.
2

Koneko, Amigurumi Cat
Additional Materials:
• Thread colors – sand or light brown for cat (punch thread was
used for the models)
• MC (med blue), CC (light purple), and sage green for costume
• 3-mm chenille stem for tail
• 2-mm pearl for button
• Two fingernail jewels OR 4 green seed beads for dress trim
• One fingernail for beauty mark (optional)
• 5-mm google eyes
• Embroidery Floss, pale rose and black
Head:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, and make 6 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook. (6 sc) This is the center front of face.
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
8. Sc in 4 sc, pl marker, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4
sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, pl marker, sc in next 4 sc. The markers
will be left in to help you place the cotter pin later. (46 sc)
9 - 14. Sc in ea sc around. (46 sc)
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 9 times, sc in last sc. (37 sc)
16. Sc in ea sc around. (37 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 6 times, sc in last sc. (31 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc in last sc. (25 sc)
• The ¼" disk will be used for the upper part of the joint in the head, and the micro
disk will be used in the neck. The 2nd micro disk will not be used. Place the ¼" disk
onto the cotter pin; insert the pin into the head and out the center bottom of the
head bet rnds 11 and 12 (centered between the two markers), easing the pin
through carefully so as not to tear the thread.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times. (20 sc)
• Stuff the head, shaping as you go. Check shaping from all angles. Stuffing is the
key to a well-shaped thread animal. If a piece is not stuffed firmly enough, it's not
possible to obtain the correct shaping. Make sure the cotter pin is in the right
place; if not, pull out the stuffing and reposition.
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)
21. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for
sewing. (10 sc)
22. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, do not work rem sc; FO, leaving long end. (8 sc)

3

Note: Be careful if using punch thread or mohair to close with, as it will break
easily. As you sew, pull gently after each stitch to gather, rather than waiting and
trying to gather all the stitches at once. Grasp the thread firmly close to the stitches.
• Finish rounding out the back of the head with stuffing. Thread long end on
needle and weave a row of gathering stitches in and out around the FL of rnd 22;
pull to gather; fasten off, insert needle into head in same place where thread comes
out, push through head, and pull out another spot to hide thread end. Clip close to
surface so that the end disappears inside the head.
Attach eyes: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are
good for this) to locate the eye positions. Sew the eyes on
with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin by threading
a sturdy needle, such as the milliner's needle, with the nylon
or other strong thread. If using wire-looped eyes, crimp the
wire loop, if it's not pre-crimped, until you can just get your
needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop
(or bead), pulling the thread into the loop, and then remove
the thread from the needle. If you can't get your needle
through the wire or bead, insert the thread through first,
then thread the needle. Thread both ends back onto the
needle, and then insert the needle into the first eye location. *Bring the needle
out the back or bottom of the head (depending on the angle you want), pulling
the thread until the wire loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the
same place where the needle went in (use a larger needle to make a tunnel for the
loop if necessary), pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the
thread to slightly imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to
allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place,** then push
through the head and out at the second eye location. Insert the threaded needle
through the eye wire or bead (once again, if your needle won't go through the
opening, remove the thread from the needle, insert it through the eye wire or
bead, then rethread the needle). Insert the needle into the 2nd eye location, then
repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd eye, bringing the needle out finally at the bottom
of the head. Tie off the ends with a surgeon's knot, then thread the ends onto the
needle and insert back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull
though the head. Clip ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the
head.
Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows: Using one strand of rose size 12 perle cotton, insert
needle into bottom of head; bring out between rnd 2 and 3, directly above the
center of rnd 1. Insert needle back into face directly down from exit point (all
bottom entry stitches will be worked into this point at nose bottom) to center of
rnd 1. *Push needle back up through muzzle and out one sc to the left of top of
1st stitch, then back into muzzle at bottom of nose.* Repeat between **, coming
out one sc to the right of top of 1st stitch this time. Continue in this manner until
nose is the desired width. Continue to fill in with satin stitches.

4

• With 1 strand of black floss, make an outline stitch from top edge of nose to
bottom point of nose on each side.
• Make a straight vertical stitch directly below and centered underneath the nose,
beginning at the center point of the bottom of the nose triangle an extending
down toward the bottom of the head about 3 or 4 rnds.
• Make a "smile" line consisting of a long, horizontal straight stitch curved across
the bottom of the face in a U-shape. The center of it should touch the vertical line
that comes down from the nose. Anchor the bottom center of the smile stitch
with a tiny stitch by coming out at the bottom center of the smile, then going
back in at the same place, bringing the thread up and around the smile line thread
to catch and secure it.
• Embroider a long, slanted straight st for each brow, beginning close to the outer
edge of the eye and slanting upward toward the center top of the head.
• Use the fine black marker to draw a very fine line around each eye. The line
should touch the eye.
• Use the rose pink pencil or makeup blush to shade cheek area.
• Use a blue or green pencil or eye shadow to shade between the eye and
eyebrow.
Ears (Make 2):
1. Begin with an adjustable ring (see instructions at beginning); make 1 sc into
ring; ch 1, turn. (1 sc) (Row 1 is the top of the ear.)
2. 4 sc in the one sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 inc)
4. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc; FO, leaving long end for
sewing ear to head.
Attach ears: Weave the loose end from row 1 down one of the sides of the ear as
inconspicuously as possible. Fold the ear in half vertically from top to bottom,
bringing ear fronts together at bottom. Place a pin down through the back of the
ear at the center point. Use the pin to locate the desired placement for the ears.
Sew ear to head using a ladder stitch, keeping the center back of the ear about the
width of one rnd behind the side edges. First make anchoring 3 anchoring
stitches, one at each end, and one at the center back of the ear. Now finish
sewing the ear to the head. Thread the tail remaining from row 1 onto a needle
and pull it through the head; clip close to surface.
• With the rose watercolor pencil, shade the inside of the ear, the cheeks, and just
under the mouth. (See Photos.)
Body:
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join; place marker. (6 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. (12 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
• At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the bottom of the head into the
center of round 1 of the body. Place the micro disk onto the cotter pin and push

5

flush toward head; then, reaching inside body with small pliers, curl each side of
cotter pin toward disk until it rests on the disk.
6 - 11. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
12. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)
• Stuff body firmly.
13. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for
closing. (8 sc)
• Finish stuffing.
• Thread end on needle, then run a row of gathering stitches in and out of the
front lps around rnd 13; pull firmly but carefully to gather and close (both punch
thread and mohair will break easily). Insert the needle into the body through
bottom opening and out elsewhere on body, pulling thread taut.
Arm (Make 2):
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3 - 6. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
• Begin stuffing.
7. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
8 - 12. Sc in ea sc around; FO at end of rnd 12, leaving long end for closing. (9
sc)
• Finish stuffing. Make sure you stuff firmly, or the thread joint won't be strong
and secure.
• Using the long end, sew top of arm closed by going in and out of the outer lps of
rnd 12 with a gathering stitch; then pull firmly but gently to gather and close.
Hide the thread end by inserting the needle into the center of the end of the arm
and bring it out elsewhere on the arm. Pass the needle through the arm once more
to secure; clip thread close to arm so that it disappears inside the arm.
Attach arms: Use straight pins stuck through the tops of the arms to test for
correct positioning of arms. Thread a 2.5" needle with a length of upholstery
thread, doubled to 15 inches; do not knot the end. Insert the needle into the first
side of body. Push needle through body and bring out at corresponding location
on opposite side, leaving a 3 inch tail of thread protruding from the 1st side.
Remember that the tops of the arms will form the "shoulders" of the bear. *Insert
needle into limb from inner to outer side. Insert needle back into outside of limb
in exact place as exit spot and push back through to inner side, dipping the needle
down and back up as you do to grab some stuffing. ** Insert the needle back into
the body in the same place where the thread is coming out, through the body,
and out the same spot where the original tail is protruding. Repeat * to ** for 2nd
limb. This time, insert the needle back into the thread joint once more, bring the
needle back through the body and out the opposite side near the joint; do not go
back into the other limb. Tie off the original tail with a surgeon's knot, then grasp
the thread on the opposite side of the body and pull firmly on the thread,
tightening the limbs against the body. Cut the thread, leaving a 3 or 4 inch tail.

6

Tie the 2nd tail into a surgeon's knot, flush against the body. Now thread the
ends of the this tail onto the needle, insert needle back into the body at the same
spot, through body, and out the back. Tug on the thread until the knot slips
inside the body, and clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside
the body. Thread the ends of the original tail onto the needle. You won't be able
to get to the joint to insert this one into the same place where it originates, so
insert the needle into the body under the arm, as close to the joint as you can get,
and pull the tail ends to the back; clip them the same as you did for the other tail
ends.
• Use the same color thread you used for the mouth to make 3 straight stitches on
the end of each paw.
Legs (Make 2): You'll begin crocheting the legs at the toe end.
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc. (12 sc)
3 - 4. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
(Rounds 5 – 8 are the shaping rounds. The sl st's are on the front of the leg.)
5. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 sc. (7 sc, 5 sl st)
6 - 8. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in FL of next 5 sl st. (7 sc, 5 sl st)
• Stuff foot; add more stuffing every few rnds as you work. The legs will turn
upward and form the feet after the shaping rounds are completed. You can help
the process by pushing the leg forward at the heel, and pushing the stuffing down
into the leg and into the heel.
9 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
13. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc. (9 sc)
• Finish stuffing leg firmly.
• Use the same method for closing the top of the leg as used for the arms.
Attach Legs: Before beginning, use straight pins to determine the position of the
leg. Check to make sure that the bottoms of the legs will be even with the bottom
of the body when the bear is sitting. Attach the legs using the same procedure as
used for the arms.
• Use the same color thread you used for the mouth to make 3 straight stitches on
the end of each paw.
Tail:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring; make 5 sc into ring; do not join. (5 sc)
• Your work will try to turn inside out for the first couple of rnds. Use tweezers or
hemostat to turn back to right side.
2. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc. (6 sc)
3 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
• Insert the end of your crochet hook into the tail to break loose any fibers that
may be catching inside that would prevent the stem from being inserted.
• Use pliers to turn down the end of the chenille stem just about 1/8" or so; crimp
the end tightly against the main stem. This will eliminate the possibility of the sharp

7

end coming out of the end of the tail. Insert chenille stem into tail. You'll work
around the stem from here on.
11 – 20. Sc in ea sc around; after rnd 20, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end
for sewing tail to body. (6 sc)
• Cut the chenille stem about 1/8" from the last rnd of the tail. Determine where
you want to place the tail, probably between the 3rd and 4th rnd from the bottom,
centered on the lower back. Use a darner or other thick needle to insert into the
back at this location, creating a path for the end of the stem. Trim as much chenille
off the stem as you can, then insert the end into the kitty's lower back using the
path you created. Use a "screwing" motion to get it in. Sew tail to body. Curve
the tail in a pleasing way. The tail can be used to help her stand up when curved
downward and out.
Usagi-Chou, Amigurumi Bunny
Additional Materials:
• White or ivory thread for bunny (1-ply wool was used for the
model)
• MC (pink), CC (turquoise), and green for costume
• Embroidery floss – pink and black
• Two 2mm black onyx beads for eyes
• One pink teardrop fingernail jewel (optional)
• 1" embroidered butterfly appliqué for wings (optional)
Head: Follow the instructions for the cat head.
Eyes: Use the instructions for the cat to sew on the eyes.
• Use the micro tip pen and a dotting motion to draw a very fine line across the
top of each eye. The line should be as close to the eye as possible.
• Use the same pen to faintly sketch in short eyebrows (see photo), or use one
strand of black embroidery floss and make one short straight stitch above each
eye.
Nose: Using one strand of pink embroidery floss, sew an inverted V in the center
of the face, with the inside of rnd 1 being the point of the V. Fill in the inverted V
with satin stitches around the part of rnd 1 that is between the 2 posts of the
inverted V.
Mouth: Continuing with the same thread, made a single vertical straight stitch,
beginning at the bottom center of the nose, and going 2 rnds downward. Use the
instructions for the "smile" line of the cat face, but make the rabbit's smile line
about ½ as wide.
• Shade the cheeks with the pink pencil.
Ears (Make 2):
1. Ch 10 with rabbit color, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch; ch 1, turn. (9
sc)
2. (Row 2 is the front of the ear.) Sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next 4 sc, 3 dc in next sc,
move on around and make 3 dc in 1st free lp, hdc in next 4 free lps, sc in next 4
free lps; FO, leaving long end to sew ear to head. (8 sc, 8 hdc, 6 dc)
• Shade the inside of the ears with a pink pencil.

8

• Count 6 rnds up from the center rnd of the back of the head; ear may be placed
between rnd 5 and 6, with the center of the ear in line with the inside edge of the
eye. Using pins, experiment with ear placement until you find the look that's
pleasing to you. Sew the ear to the head, with the back edge of the vertical fold
between rnds 5 and 6, and the front edge between rnds 7 and 8 (or placement of
your choosing). Leave the width of about 3 sc between the ears.
Body. Use the instructions for the cat body.
Arms. Use instructions for the cat arms. Use one strand of pink floss to
embroider the claw stitches.
Legs. Use the instructions for the cat legs. Use one strand of pink floss to
embroider the claw stitches.
Tail:
• I prefer to use the WS as the outside of the tail, but it's your choice. If you do
opt to have the WS outside, may want to crochet from the inside so you won't
have to turn the piece at the end.
1. With rabbit color ch 2; 6 sc in 2nd ch from loop; do not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
6. Sc2tog 9 times; FO, leaving long end. (9 sc)
• Stuff tail lightly.
• Gather and close; hide thread end inside tail.
• Sew tail to center of lower back. Make sure you don't sew it so low that the
bunny won't be able to sit down.
Hanaki, Amigurumi Bear
Additional Materials:
• Oatmeal or beige thread for bear (lace-weight angora was
used for the model)
• MC (yellow), CC (maroon), and green for costume
• White or ivory thread for wings (wings are optional)
• Two 3mm flat black eyes
• Dark Brown Embroidery Floss
Head: Follow the instructions for the cat head.
Eyes: Use the instructions for the cat to sew on the eyes.
Nose: Embroider the nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with 2 strands of
dark brown embroidery floss. Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the
needle up through the bottom of the head, and coming out at center top of rnd 1
(bet rnd 1 and 2). Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight
down from the exit point, and insert back into the face under the rnd 1 on the
bottom end (bet rnd 1 and 2), or where you want the longest point of the nose to
be. This will be the bottom point of the triangle for all the nose stitches. Make
another stitch over the first one, then make the next stitch beginning at the
bottom center of the nose, and ending in the space 1 sc to the right of the center
stitch. Repeat to the left. Now fill in the nose with satin stitch. To make the top

9


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