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BBT052 Southern Belle Lulu(1) .pdf



Original filename: BBT052_Southern_Belle_Lulu(1).pdf
Title: LULU - MINIATURE 3-1/4 INCH THREAD BEAR WITH TWO FOOT STYLES
Author: John Pendleton

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Southern Belle Lulu
A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton
Phone: (830)896-9616
Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com
On-line Store: www.etsy.com/shop/bluebearytreasures

BBT052

2

Abbreviations
beg – begin/beginningbet -- between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously
made: e.g., ch-1 space
ch-sp – refers to chain or space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont -- continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches
together (decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2
stitches together
inc – increase

lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog -- together
WS -- wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook

____________________________________________________________
Comparison Between Perle Cotton and Crochet Cotton:
Perle Size
3
5
8
12
16

Crochet Size
5
10
20
30
40 - 50

Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a ruler,
with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit inside ¼ inch (.6
cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your thread wraps around 12 times,
then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.
Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a ruler,
with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit inside ½ inch (1.3
cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if your thread wraps around 30 times,
then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton

3

Materials & Supplies for Bear: Size 20 thread and size 10 hook = 3-1/4 inch bear













Size 20 cotton thread, ivory – 1 ball of DMC Cebelia makes about 3 bears
Size 20 thread, light brown and red (for shoes) – about 25 yds
Size 10 crochet hook
Fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Two 3mm glass beads for eyes, or 4mm mini teddy bear eyes, amber
Two ¼” by 1/16” joint disks (optional)
One 1/16” by ½ “ cotter pin (optional)
Black embroidery thread
Sewing Needles: 2” Milliner's needle and beading needle, or needles of choice
Small hemostat or tweezers to assist with stuffing
Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
Small, sharp scissors

Materials & Supplies for Southern Belle Outfit:
 Size 20 crochet thread, red – dress and bag (Model was made with Cebelia DMC)
 Size 20 crochet thread, black – trim, hat, shawl, bloomers
 Size 10 crochet hook
 Three ¼-inch red ribbon roses
 Four 3mm black beads for buttons
 14-inch length of 1/18 or 1/16-inch-wide ribbon for sash
 8-inch length of same ribbon for hat bow
 Sewing needle
 Sewing thread in same color as ribbon rose.
 Blunt tapestry needle
Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the pattern
pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is suggested that when
making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that you complete both in one
sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for all pieces unless otherwise
indicated.
Guide to Making Southern Belle Lulu in Other Sizes

THREAD/YARN

HOOK

EYES

JOINT HARDWARE

APPROX SIZE

Size 30, Size 12 Pearl

12

2 or 3mm

1/2" cotter pin/1/4" disk

2.5" – 3"

Size 10
Sport or DK Weight
Worsted Weight

7
C
G

4 or 5mm glass
9-mm plastic
12mm plastic

1" cotter pin/1/2" disk
20mm plastic joint set
30mm plastic joint set

5" – 6"
7" – 9 "
12" – 14"

4

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the bear, you can hide the loose ends by
pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle through the piece 2
or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out between stitches, being careful
not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and clip close to the surface so that it
disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you can't
hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long enough to
enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always leave a tail that is
long enough to thread onto a needle and weave. To weave: Thread the tail onto a needle.
Working on the WS of the piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened
off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5
stitches, and then turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.
Important Note on Stuffing: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be amazed at
the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed firmly so that
it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to the extent that
the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
BEAR
Head:
1. Ch 6 with bear color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch continuing
around to opposite side of chain, sc in next 3 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp; do not join, place rnd
marker. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
4 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
6. Sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. (19 sc)
7. Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 12 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (31 sc)
8. Sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3
sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (41 sc)
9. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (39 sc)
10. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc. (35 sc)
11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)
13. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc. (33 sc)
14 – 15. Sc in ea around. (33 sc)
16. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker here (this is to change the beginning point of the rnd, and
does not change the stitch count), sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in
next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (29 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times; last st will go into next row; move rnd marker to begin rnd
here. (23 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (23)

5

 Stuff muzzle, then place a disc onto a cotter pin; insert the pin into the head and out the center
bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the middle of the snout, easing
the pin through carefully so as not to tear the thread. Continue stuffing the head so that you can
be sure you have the cotter pin in the right place. If the joint is off-center, remove the stuffing
and reposition the cotter pin.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times; do not work last 2 st. (16 sc)
 Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek area on
each side of the snout. Check shaping from all angles.
20. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
21. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 8 times; FO, leaving long end for sewing.
 Add as much stuffing as you need in order to round out the back of the head.
 Thread long end on needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of FL of rnd 21; pull
firmly to gather, fasten off.
Eye Sockets (optional): Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions. Mark the position. Thread a needle using upholstery or other strong thread
similar to the color of the head. Insert the needle up into the bottom of the head and out the left
eye location between rows 8 and 9. Take a stitch the width of one sc, inserting needle back into
head, and bringing it out at the right eye location, about 10 – 12 stitches to the right of the st just
taken. Pull firmly to make an indentation for left eye. Take a stitch the width of one sc, inserting
needle into head at right eye location, and back out where the 1 st left eye stitch was taken. Pull
firmly to make an indentation for the right eye. Keeping thread taut, insert needle into left eye
socket, and bring it out the bottom of head. Fasten off securely, making sure that eye sockets
remain indented. At this point you may use dark brown eye shadow on a cotton swab, water
color pencil, or other medium to shade the eye area, if desired.
Attach eyes: Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin by threading a
sturdy needle, such as the milliner's needle, with the nylon or other strong thread.
Wire loop eyes: Crimp the wire loop, if it's not pre-crimped, until you can just get your needle
through the loop; insert the needle through the loop, pulling the thread into the loop, and then
remove the thread from the needle. Thread both ends back onto the needle, and then insert the
needle into the first eye location. Bring the needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending
on the angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire loop touches the face. Insert the
crimped loop into the same place where the needle went in (use a larger needle to enlarge the
hole to accommodate the loop if necessary), pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently but
firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to
allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place, then push through to another
place on the bottom of the head, to help anchor the thread. Remove the thread from the needle,
and tie the ends with a surgeon's knot (see diagram at right). Thread the ends back onto the
needle, then push the needle through to another spot on the bottom of the head. Tug on the

6

thread to force the knot inside the head. Pull the thread taut, and
close to surface so that the end disappears inside the head.
Repeat the process for the second eye.

clip

Bead eyes: Use the same method as for wired eyes, but if you
can't
get the needle you're using through the eye bead, remove the thread from the needle, insert it
through the eye bead, then rethread the needle. If you see small indentations on the back of the
head caused by attaching the eyes, insert the needle into the head sideways underneath the
stitches where the indentation is, and gently pull upward with the needle until the area is even
with the rest of the head.
(Optional) Using the fine tip black marker, draw a fine line across the top of the eye from one
side to the other. Draw the line using a dotting motion, staying very close to the outer edge of
the eye.
Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows:
Embroider nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery floss.
Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle up through the bottom of the head or
muzzle, and coming out at center top of muzzle between rows 2 and 3 (1 and 2 for shorter
muzzle). Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight down from the exit point,
and insert back into the muzzle where you want the longest point of the nose to be. This will be
the bottom point of the triangle for all the nose stitches. Make another stitch over the first one,
then make the next stitch beginning at the bottom center of the nose, and ending in the space 1 sc
to the right of the center stitch. Repeat to the left. Now fill in the nose with satin stitch. With
the same thread, embroider 1 vertical straight stitch beginning at bottom center of nose and going
downward about 3 sc in length. Make an inverted v-stitch for mouth, with center being at the
bottom of the straight stitch that comes down from nose. Embroider a straight st for each brow,
beg at outer edge of each eye between rows 1 or 2 rows above eyes (depending upon the
expression you want the bear to have), making each brow 2 or 3 sc long. Don’t be afraid to
experiment with placement of the features.
Ears (Make 2):
1. Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn (rnd 1 is the front of the ear). (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc across. (14 sc)
5. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. Sc2tog 5 times; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
8. Sc in next 3 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing.
Attach ears: Thread a needle with the long end. With front facing up, flatten ear horizontally,
then sew bottom opening of ear from center to left side. Fold ear vertically from center towards
front, bringing ear into a cup shape with RS forming inside of cup. Tack bottom left front corner
to bottom right front corner. Sew bottom opening from right side to center of ear.

7

Put a straight pin through the bottom of each ear, pointing downward, and experiment with
placement until you find the location you like. Sew ear to head, maintaining cup shape, with
back center point of ear placed 3 rows behind center front.
Body:
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc.
(34 sc)
7 - 11. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
12. Sc in next 11 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (40
sc)
13. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)
14. Sc in next 12 sc, place a contrasting marker, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, 2 sc in
next sc, place a contrasting marker, sc in next12 sc. (46 sc) The two markers will be used to
assist with placement of head, arms, and legs, so be careful not to pull them out as you work.
15. Sc in ea sc around. (46 sc)
16. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (42 sc)
18. Sc in next 6 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (35 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)
If disk jointing: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the
bottom of the head into the center of round 1 of the body. Place a disk onto
cotter pin and push flush toward head; then, reaching inside body with small
pliers, curl each side of cotter pin toward disk.

the

If thread jointing: Stuff upper part of body firmly. Thread a 3-inch needle with doubled
upholstery or other strong thread that matches body. Insert needle up into body through stuffing,
and out center of neck. Take a stitch into the bottom center of the bear's head beginning slightly
to the right of center, go as deep as you can, and come out slightly to the left of center. Insert the
needle back into the center of neck on body, back down through the stuffing, and out the bottom.
Pull to bring head snugly against body. Next insert the needle back up through the body, out
center neck opening, and up through center of head, coming out at center top of head between
ears. Reverse the process, inserting the needle into the same place where you just brought it out
on the head, and bringing it out the bottom opening of the body. Pull firmly but gently on the
thread, then tie off inside the body.
20. Sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (26 sc)
21. Sc in ea sc around. (26 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog. (17 sc)
 Stuff body firmly.

8

23. Sc2to 9 times; FO, leaving a long end.
 Close using the same method used for the head.
Right Arm:
1. Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on opposite side of ch,
sc in next 3 free lps; place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
8. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
10 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
 Begin stuffing arm.
17. Sc in next 2 st, sl st loosely in next 3 sl st, sc in next 9 sc. (11 sc, 3 sl st)
18. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (15 sc)
19 – 21. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
22. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (13 sc)
23. 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing. (11 sc )
 Finish stuffing firmly. Close end using same method used to close head and body.
Left Arm:
1. Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on opposite side of ch,
sc in next 3free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
8. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
10 – 14. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in next 6 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
 Begin stuffing arm.
17. Sc in next 7 st, sl st loosely in next 3 sl st, sc in next 4 sc. (11 sc, 3 sl st)
18. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 st. (15 sc)
19 – 21. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
22. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (13 sc)
23. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc; FO with sl st in next sc; leaving
long end for sewing. (11 sc )

9


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