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BBT061 Angelynn(2) .pdf



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Angelynn

BBT061

A Miniature Bear Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton
www.bluebearytreasures.com

bluebearymailbox@aol.com
Phone (830) 896-9616

2

3

LIST OF MATERIALS (Bear is 3" or 7.5cm):
















*Punch thread - Sand, or color of choice for bear (1 spool will make at least 2 bears)
Turquoise or color of choice for dress
Gold or color of choice for dress trim
White for panties and socks
Red for shoes and bow
Size 12 (1mm) crochet hook
Fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Two 3-mm onyx beads or bear eyes
1 mini disc joint set for head (two 1/4" discs and one 1/2" cotter pin)
Black embroidery floss
Black nylon thread for attaching eyes
Upholstery thread in color similar to bear – for jointing
Sewing Needles: 2-inch sharp, beading, small tapestry, small sewing needle
Small hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
Small needle-nose pliers for cotter pin
Small, sharp scissors
Pink water color pencil, such as Prisma, OR makeup blush - for shading cheeks
Black micro-tip marker

* Note: You can substitute the thread of your choice, but make sure to use the
same size thread and hook for the bear and her clothing.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
GAGE: Gage is not important as long as you use the same size thread and hook for the
bear and her clothes. However, when making two pieces that must be the same, such as
arms and legs, it's best to make both in one sitting. Otherwise the two pieces may be
different sizes, because the tension that you use on the thread often changes depending on
mood or time of day.
TENSION: When working with fine thread, wrap the thread clockwise (counterclockwise for left-handers) before draping it over your index finger. Be sure the thread is
loose enough to flow smoothly. This will take some stress off your hands, and your
fingers won’t get fatigued so fast.
WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the doll, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long

4

enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
TO WEAVE LOOSE ENDS: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the
piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle
underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then
turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.
HDC2TOG: Half double crochet two together. (YO and insert hook into next stitch,
yoh and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, YO and pull through
all loops on hook.
HDC3TOG: Half double crochet three together. (YO and insert hook into next stitch,
yoh and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO and pull
through all loops on hook.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------ABBREVIATIONS

alt – alternate
approx – approximately
beg – begin/beginning
bet -- between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously made:
e.g., ch-1 space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont -- continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
(decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches
together
inc – increase

lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
oz – ounce(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rep – repeat(s)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog -- together
WS -- wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook

See List of Internet Supply Sources on Page 14

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HEAD:
1. Ch 5 with bear color, sc in 2 ch from hook and in next 3 ch; move around to opposite
side of chain, sc in next 4 free lps, do not join – place rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker here (this changes the beginning point for the round
– it does NOT change the stitch count), sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
• Place a contrasting marker in the next stitch, which you will leave in to mark the
bottom center of the muzzle. This will help you place the joint pin later.
6. 2 sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
8. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in
next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in
ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (44 sc)
9. Sc in next 2 sc, move marker to begin rnd here, sc in ea sc around. (44 sc)
10 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (44 sc)
14. Sc in next sc, move marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 11 times.
(33sc)
15 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
17. Sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times, sc in next sc. (28 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
• At this point, place one of the discs onto the cotter pin; push the pin all the way up
against the loop of the pin. Insert the pin inside the head and out the center bottom of
the head between rows 11 and 12, directly in line with the middle of the snout, easing
the pin through carefully between rows and stitches so as not to tear the thread.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 7 times. (21 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times. (14 sc)
• Stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Check shaping from all angles – head should be
round from the front and the back views. With clean fingers, gently massage it into
shape.
21. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
22. (Sc2tog) 7 times, keeping stitches as tight as possible; fasten off with sl st in next sc,
leaving long end for closing. (7 sc)
• Add more stuffing if needed to round out the back of the head. Thread long end on
needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out around the front loops of rnd
22; pull to gather and close. Punch thread will break rather easily, so use the
following method to close: (take a stitch, then pull gently), repeat within ( ) for each
stitch around. That way, the opening should be closed by the time you've made the
last stitch. Gently pull once more until opening is tightly closed. Insert needle into
head and pull out another spot to secure hide thread end; repeat once more. Trim
thread close to surface so that it disappears inside.
nd

EYES:
Eye Sockets: Thread a needle using a of nylon or other strong thread; knot the end.
Insert the needle up into the bottom part of the head and out the left eye location between

6

rows 5 and 6; tug to pull the knot inside the head. Take a stitch the length of one sc row,
inserting needle back into head, and bringing it out at the right eye location, about 8
stitches to the right of the st just taken. Pull tightly to make an indentation for left eye.
Take a stitch the length of one sc row, inserting needle into head at right eye location, and
back out where the 1st left eye stitch was taken. Pull tightly to make an indentation for
the right eye. Repeat the process a time or two if needed, going back and forth from one
eye to the other. Finally, keeping thread taut, insert needle into eye socket, and bring it
out the bottom of head. Run the needle through the bottom of the head once more to
secure, always going in and out between stitches. Clip thread close to surface so that it
disappears inside the head.
ATTACH EYES: Shade the eye sockets with a brown pencil or eye shadow (optional).
Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread, not doubled, with end knotted:
Begin by inserting the thread through the first eye bead; pull through until the thread is
doubled, then thread both ends onto the needle. Insert the needle into the first eye socket,
down through the head, and out the bottom of the head. Pull firmly to imbed the eye into
the socket. Insert the needle back into the exact spot where it came out, being careful not
to catch any fabric, and bring it out the second eye location. Remove the thread from the
needle, insert one of the thread ends into the second eye bead, then thread both ends back
onto the needle. Insert needle back into the second eye socket, and bring out at bottom of
head. Tug to imbed the eye into the socket. Keeping the thread taut so that the eye
doesn't loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place where it came out, being careful
not to catch any fabric, and push through head horizontally and out another place on the
bottom of the head. Repeat once more. Clip the thread close to the head so that it
disappears inside. If any indentations were made on the bottom of the head, insert the tip
of the needle underneath the depression and gently pull upward until the area is even
once again.
Use a very fine tip black marker to carefully outline the eyes (optional). Make the line
with small dotting motions rather than trying to draw a solid line.
FACIAL FEATURES:
NOSE:
Using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery floss, embroider a triangle at the top
of the muzzle for the nose. Begin by knotting one end of your thread; insert needle into
bottom of head; bring out center top of muzzle. Tug until knot disappears inside head.
Insert needle back into muzzle about the length of 2 sc directly down from exit point (all
bottom entry stitches will be worked into this point at nose bottom). *Push needle back
up through muzzle and out one sc to the left of top of 1st stitch, then back into muzzle at
bottom of nose.* Repeat between **, coming out one sc to the right of top of 1st stitch
this time. Continue in this manner until nose is the desired width, and is filled in with
satin stitches.
With two strands of black thread, make a vertical straight stitch centered underneath the
nose, beginning at the bottom point of the nose, and coming downward about the length
of 3 sc; do not finish off.
MOUTH:

7

Using the same black floss to embroider the mouth, bring the needle out about halfway
up the side of the muzzle. Bring the thread around in the shape of a smile to the other
side of the muzzle, and insert the needle into the second side, directly opposite the
beginning. (The thread should follow the curve of the rounds of the muzzle, and lay
between rows 2 and 3, touching the bottom point of the vertical stitch.) Bring the needle
back out at the center of the "smile" line, above the thread, then bring the needle down
over the thread, and insert it back in the same place where it came out. Bring the needle
out the bottom of the head (or go ahead and use the same thread to embroider the
eyebrows), then clip the thread close to the head so that then end disappears inside.
BROWS:
Embroider a straight st for each brow, two rows above the eyes and about 3 sc in length.
Follow the contours between the rows.
EARS (Make 2):
Leave a tail at the beginning of the work that is long enough to thread onto a needle and
pull inside the head.
1. Ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2. Row 2 is front of ear. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next
sc, 2 sc in next sc; FO, leaving long end.
ATTACH EARS:
First use pins to attach the ears to the head in different positions until you are satisfied
with their placement. The ears should be cupped, with the center placed about the width
of one row behind the bottom outside edges. Sew the ears to the head. Pull the thread
inside the head to hide. Thread the beginning tail onto the needle and pull it also inside
the head to hide.
BODY:
1. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch, continue around to
opposite side of ch and make 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 4 free lps; do not join, place rnd
marker. (12 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, pl a contrasting marker
after the last stitch, which you will leave in to mark the center front. (18 sc)
4. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc
in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (24 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)
6. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 20 sc, t, 2 sc in next sc. (24 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next
sc, 2 sc in next sc. (28 sc)
ATTACH HEAD:
Insert the cotter pin that protrudes from the bottom of the head into the top of the body, in
the center of the 2nd ch from the back edge of the neck, from the outside to the inside,

8

until head is flush against body. Push a disk onto the cotter pin until it is
flush against the fabric. With your pliers, curl the ends of the cotter pin out
and under until each rests on the disc (See illustration).
9 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
16. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog. (22
sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)
18. Sc2tog twice, sc in next sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next sc,
sc2tog, sc in next sc. (15 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
• Begin stuffing body with very small pieces of fiberfill push up around the neck joint.
Stuff body firmly.
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO, leaving long end for closing.
• Finish stuffing.
• Note that the body is designed to be narrow when viewed from
the front or the back. Close the bottom with a front-to-back seam,
having 5 sc on each side, using a ladder stitch (see illustration at
right).
ARMS (MAKE 2):
1. Ch 3, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, moving around to work on opposite
side of ch, 2 sc in ea of next 2 ch; do not join, pl rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. (10 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
• Turn the piece right side out.
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (12 sc)
5 - 6. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (10
sc)
• Stuff paw.
8. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc. (11
sc)
10. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (12 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
12. Sc in next 3 sc, sl st loosely in next 6 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (6 sc, 6 sl st)
• Continue stuffing.
13 – 17. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (10 sc )
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) twice; FO, leaving long end for closing. (6 sc)
• Finish stuffing firmly. If the limbs are under stuffed, your thread joint will not be
strong or attractive. Close the end using the same method used for the body. The
seam should run from top to bottom. The six slip stitches on rnds 12 and 13 are on
the top of the arm, opposite the elbow, and will enable the lower arm to bend slightly
upward. Bend the paw slightly inward toward the body.

9



Use one strand of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches
at the end of each paw for claws.

ATTACH ARMS:
Begin by using pins to find the desired placement for the limbs: Insert a pin through each
arm from outer to inner arm, about two rows down from the top seam. Now you can play
with the placement of the arms until it looks right to you. Once you have determined
where to place the arms, mark the spot on each side where the arms will be attached.
Thread a needle (one that is long enough to go through the bear and both limbs easily)
with upholstery thread, doubled; do not knot the end. Insert needle into first shoulder,
and push through body and out the opposite side at the arm mark; leave a 3 inch (7.5cm)
tail of thread protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body one rnd
above and push back through body, coming out one rnd above the protruding tail. Then
insert the needle back into the same place from which the tail is protruding, push back
through to opposite side of shoulder, and back out same place as before (bottom of
stitch). Pull to indent arm sockets slightly, then insert needle into first
arm from inner arm. * Push out other side, then insert needle back into
arm in same place, dip needle down and back up, inside the arm, to
catch some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out arm in same
place as entry. Go back into body in same place as thread joint, through
body and back out opposite side in same place as tail,** then into 2nd
arm from inner side of arm. Repeat * to ** for this arm; end by coming out just in front
of the 1st arm. Pull thread to tighten arms against body. Cut thread, leaving 3-inch tail.
Make sure arm joints are snug, then tie both sets of tails, using a surgeon's knot (see
illustration at right). Thread the ends onto a needle, and pull through the body to hide
ends; clip close to body. Finish by using one or two strands of black floss to embroider 4
vertical straight stitches on the end of each paw for claws.
LEGS (MAKE 2):
1. Ch 5 with shoe color, sc in 2 ch from hook and in next 3 ch; continue around to other
side of ch and sc in next 4 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(24 sc)
4. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (24 sc)
5. Sl st in next sc, ch 1, working in both lps, sc in both lps of same sc as joining and in ea
sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (24 sc)
6. Sc in same sc as joining (be careful not to work in the ch-1) and in next 3 sc, (sc2tog,
sc in next sc) 6 times, sc in next 2 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO shoe color. (18 sc)
7. Working this row in BL, join white with sc in same sc as joining, sc in next 17 sc; join
with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (18 sc)
8. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 5 sc; join with sl st
in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (14 sc)
• Stuff foot; continue to add stuffing as you work up the leg.
9. Working in both lps, sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next
5 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (12 sc)
nd


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