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Matilda LeMouton

A Crochet Pattern By Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures By Sue Pendleton
Phone (830) 896-9616
Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com

LIST OF SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS: Matilda is 9.5" (24cm) Tall.



















DK or Sport Weight Yarn in White – about 450 yds
DK or Sport Weight Yarn in Black – about 35 yds
DK or Sport Weight Yarn in Pink – about 5 yds
Black embroidery floss
Size 10 crochet thread – less than 25 yds each of turquoise, yellow, spring green,
red, and black
Size 1 (2.35mm) crochet hook for the sheep
Size 7 (1.65mm) crochet hook for the flower and lady bug
Fiberfill Stuffing
Two 7mm black plastic eyes for Matilda
One 30mm plastic joint set for Matilda's Neck
Black fabric marker for making spots on ladybug
Clear nail polish or glue for fray-stopping ladybug's antennae
Pair of inexpensive false eyelashes (optional) for Matilda
Pink water color pencil or make up for shading cheeks and ears
15" (38cm) length of 3/8" (1cm)-wide wire-edged ribbon, dark red
Small, sharp scissors
Sewing Needles, including a 5" doll needle, a blunt tapestry needle, and a needle
with an eye that is big enough to accommodate size 10 thread
Hemostat or long tweezers to aid in stuffing small areas

GAGE: Gage is not an issue for this pattern. However, since tension can vary in
different circumstances, it is suggested that when making more than one piece that must
be the same, such as legs or ears, that you complete both in one sitting.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Adjustable Ring: Grasp the thread or yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving
a tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the
back thread from underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in
the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and
tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten
back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue
working pattern.
Important Note On Stuffing: The way that you stuff your animal can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product. You'll be amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each
piece requires. The pieces should be stuffed firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not
so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to the extent that the stuffing shows through in
a distracting manner.

2

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

Weaving/Hiding Loose Thread Ends: Hide the loose ends by threading them onto a
tapestry needle and pulling them to the inside of the piece. Pass the needle through the
piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out between stitches,
being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip close to the
surface so that it disappears inside.

ABBREVIATIONS
alt – alternate
approx – approximately
beg – begin/beginning
bet -- between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously made:
e.g., ch-1 space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont -- continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
(decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches
together
inc – increase

lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
oz – ounce(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rep – repeat(s)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog -- together
WS -- wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

3

Matilda LeMouton
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you don't wish to add crocheted lps to make Matilda
appear wooly, then you will not need to leave free lps to work in later; therefore,
work stitches in both loops throughout. Although the process of adding the "wool"
is labor intensive, the result is very attractive.
HEAD (Horizontal Muzzle):
1. Ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next ch, turn corner and sc in end
of row just completed (side bars of last sc made); move around to other side of ch, and
make 2 sc in ea of the next 2 free lps, sc in next free lp, turn corner and sc in end of row
just completed; do not join, pl rnd marker. (12 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
3 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
6. Remove rnd marker, sc in next sc, replace rnd marker (this is to adjust the beginning
point for the next rnd; it does not change the stitch count), (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2
sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
8. Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 20 sc. (35 sc)
9. Sc in next 5 sc, sc in BL of next 10 sc, sc in both lps of next 8 sc, sc in BL of next 12
sc. (35 sc)
10. Sc in next 4 sc, sc in BL of next 12 sc, sc in both lps of next 8 sc, sc in BL of next 11
sc. (35 sc)
11. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (35 sc)
12. Sc in BL of next 4 sc, sc in both lps of next 3 sc (mark with contrasting thread for
ear placement), sc in BL of next 9 sc, sc in both lps of next 3 sc (mark with contrasting
thread for ear placement), sc in BL of next 16 sc. (35 sc)



Insert the eyes now. Count back 7 rnds from center of muzzle. Insert the plastic eye
pin between rnds 7 and 8. Leave about 9 sc between the eye pins. Use the row of free
lps on rnd 9 to help you center the eyes.
When you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes, push the plastic washers onto
the eye pins.

13. Sc in BL of next 4 sc, sc in both lps of next 3 sc, working in BL, sc2tog 5 times, sc in
both lps of next 3 sc, sc in BL of next 15 sc. (30 sc)
14 - 15. Sc in BL of ea sc around . (30 sc)
16. Working in BL, (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times. (25 sc)
17. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (25 sc)
18. Working in BL, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times. (20 sc)


Insert the joint disk. Place the center hole of the smooth disk that is included with
the joint set over the disk pin and push it flush to the bottom of the disk. Fold the
head in half horizontally to aid in finding the center of the bottom of the head. Use

4

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

the 12 free lps from rnd 9 to help you locate the center, and check to see that both
eyes are about the same distance from the fold. Count back 5 rnds from the edge of
rnd 18, and insert the pin between rnds 5 and 6.
19. Working in BL, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)


Stuff head.

20. Working in BL, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) 5 times; FO, leaving long end for closing. (10
sc)



Finish stuffing head. Don't worry that the head looks a little flat on bottom; it needs
to be in order to fit properly against the neck.
Thread the long end onto a tapestry needle and sew a gathering stitch in and out
around the FL of the sc's around rnd 20. Pull firmly to close the center opening. Pass
the needle underneath the next stitch to secure, and then insert into the center and out
elsewhere on head. Make several passes through the head, in one spot and out
another, always between stitches, 2 or 3 time, to anchor the end. Clip close to the
surface so that the end disappears inside.

NOSE: Use 6 strands of black embroidery floss to create the nose, sewing 2 straight
stitches about the length of 2 rows to make a "V" at the end of the
muzzle (see photos).
MOUTH: Continue with the same floss from the nose and make a
vertical straight stitch beginning at the bottom point of the "V" and
coming down the length of 1 row. For the mouth, make a larger
inverted "V" stitch with the center top point touching the bottom of the vertical stitch.
OUTER EARS (Make 2):
1. Ch 8 with white, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch, turn corner and sc in side
bars of last sc made, move around to opposite side of ch and sc in ea of the 7 free lps; ch
1, turn. (15 sc)
2. Row 2 is the RS. Sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sl st in next sc, ch
2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in same sc), sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 2
sc, ch 1, turn corner and sc in next 3 row ends, join with sl st in end of 1st sc; FO, leaving
long end for sewing. (4 sl st, 11 sc, 6 hdc)
INNER EARS (Make 2):
1. Ch 8 with pink, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch, turn corner and sc in side bars
of last sc made, move around to opposite side of ch and sc in ea of the 7 free lps; FO. (15
sc)
2. Row 2 is the RS. With RS facing and working in BL, join white with sc in 1st sc, sc in
next sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc, (sl st in next sc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl
st in same sc), sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 1, turn corner and sc in
next 3 row ends; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (4 sl st, 11 sc, 6 hdc)

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

5







Place an inner ear and an outer ear with WS together. Thread one of the long ends
onto a tapestry needle, and sew the two pieces together along all edges. Sew as
follows: With front of ear facing you, insert the needle from front to back through the
inside lp of the next sc on the front piece, and then continue through the inside lp of
the same sc on the back piece; pull to bring the pieces together. Turn and insert the
needle from back to front through the inside lp of the next sc on back piece, and on
through the inside lp of the same sc on the front piece; pull to complete the stitch.
Continue sewing in this manner all around the ear.
Fold ear in half vertically with pink side forward, and tack the bottom front edges
together.
Pin the ears to the head at the marked areas on each side of the head (where the 3
stitches were worked in both lps). The inside of the ear should be facing slightly
forward. See photos for guidance.
When you are satisfied with the placement, sew ears in place.

SHADING: With a light pink water color pencil or makeup blush, shade the cheeks.
Also use pink to very lightly shade inside the "V" of the nose, inside the "inverted V" of
the mouth, and add a bit to the cheeks.

ADD "WOOL" TO HEAD:
1. Beginning at the back of the head, you will work in the free lps, making chain lps
around the head, following the spiral pattern of the crocheted rounds. Begin with the top
of the head toward you, and join white with a sl st in 1st free lp at the back of the head, ch
8, sl st in same pl, (ch 8, sl st in next free lp) around, covering the head with lps.
2. The place on the bottom of the head that is against the joint disk must be flat, so don't
make any lps within about ¼" (6mm) all around the disk or on the flat area where the disk
in the head will set against the disk in the neck. As you make your spirals and you
eventually come to the place where you are within ¼" of the edge of the disk, begin
working in rows back and forth as follows: [ch 8, turn, sl st in free lp on next row, (ch 8,
sl st in next free lp) across the head to within ¼" of the edge of the desk on the opposite
side.] Repeat within [ ], probably 2 or 3 rows, until you are blocked by an ear.
3. Ch 8, turn, sl st in free lp on next row, (ch 8, sl st in next free lp) across the head to
within ¼" of the edge of the disk on the opposite side.
4. This segment will fill in the wool under the 2nd ear. Ch 8, turn, sl st in free lp on next
row BEHIND the row just completed (under the ear), (ch 8, sl st in next free lp) up to
edge of ear; ch 8, turn, sl st in free lp on next row BEHIND the row just completed

6

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

(directly beneath the ear), (ch 8, sl st in next free lp) down to within ¼" of edge of disk;
FO.
5. With front facing you, join white with sl st in 1st free lp, (working in the 12 free lps at
the center of the forehead, directly below the last line of "wool"), ch 8, sl st in same pl,
(ch 8, sl st in next free lp) in each of next 11 free lps, ch 8, turn, sl st in 1st free lp on next
row, (ch 8, sl st in next free lp) twice, ch 9, sl st in next free lp, (ch 8, sl st in next free lp)
in ea free lp across; FO. Always leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle
so that you can pull it inside the body to hide it.
6. Use the same method to fill in the two rows of free lps on top of the head, between the
ears.
7. Use the same method to fill in the two rows of free lps underneath the muzzle.
BODY:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, and make 6 sc into ring; do not join, pl rnd marker. (6
sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around, remove rnd marker, sc in next 2 sc, replace rnd marker (does not
change stitch count). (12 sc showing)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times, sl st in next sc. (23 sc, 1 sl st)
Begin working all stitches in BL unless otherwise instructed.
5. Sc in next 23 sc, sc in next sl st. (24 sc)
6 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
8. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 10 sc. (28 sc)
9. Sc in next 10 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11
sc. (32 sc)
10. Sc in next 13 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12
sc. (36 sc)
11. Sc in next 14 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 15
sc. (40 sc)
12. Sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in
next 15. (43 sc)
13. Sc in ea sc around. (43 sc)
14. Sc in next 18 sc, (2 sc in ea next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next
18 sc. (47)
15. Sc in next 20 sc, (2 sc in ea next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next
20 sc. (51 sc)
16. Sc2tog, sc in next 21 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in
next 22 sc. (54 sc)
17. Sc in next 24 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 23
sc. (58 sc)
18. Sc2tog, sc in next 25 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 26 sc. (55 sc)
19. Sc2tog, sc in next 51 sc, sc2tog. (53 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc), 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (46 sc)
21. Sc2tog, sc in next 21 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 21 sc. (44 sc)

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

7

22. Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog. (40
sc)
ATTACH HEAD: Insert the disk pin that is protruding from the bottom of the head into
the center of rnd 1 of the neck. Place the disk onto the pin, and, pushing on the head with
your thumbs and on the disk with your fingers, push the disk up onto the pin as far as it
will go. Mold the head back into shape if necessary.


Stuff neck.

23. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 8 times. (32 sc)
24. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 8 times. (24 sc)


Continue stuffing.

25. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
26. (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 6 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(12 sc)



Finish stuffing.
Thread the end on a needle, and sew the opening closed with a vertical seam, having
6 sc on one side of the opening, and 6 on the other side. Insert the needle into the
body at the end of the seam, and bring out elsewhere on body. Pass the needle
through the body 2 or 3 more times to anchor the end. Clip close to the surface so
that it disappears inside the body.

LEFT FRONT LEG:
1. Ch 4 with black, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch; move around
to opposite side of ch and make 2 sc in next free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in next free lp;
ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
2. Row 2 is RS. Sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc; FO. (10 sc)
3. With RS facing, join lamb color in BL of 1st sc, sc in BL of next 9 sc, ch 1, turn corner
and sk 1st5 (white) row end, sc in next 4 row ends; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not
turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, sk ch-1, sc in
next sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; do not join, pl rnd marker. (11 sc)
5. Sk sl st and ch-1, sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
6. Sc2tog, sc in rem 9 sc. (10 sc)


Begin stuffing leg, and continue stuffing every few rnds as you work.

7 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (10)
13. Sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (7 sc, 3 hdc)
14. Sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 3 sc. (10 sc)
15 – 19. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
20. Sc in ea sc around; turn. (10 sc)

8

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

21.
22.
23.
24.
sc)

Sc in FL of next 7 sc; ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
Sc in BL of next 7 sc; ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
Sk next sc, sc in FL of next 4 sc, sc2tog in FL; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
Sk next sc, sc in BL of next 2 sc, sc2tog in BL; FO, leaving long end for closing. (3

RIGHT FRONT LEG:
1. Ch 4 with black, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch; move around
to opposite side of ch and make 2 sc in next free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in next free lp;
ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
2. Row 2 is RS. Sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc; FO. (10 sc)
3. With RS facing, join lamb color in BL of 1st sc, sc in BL of next 9 sc, ch 1, turn corner
and sk 1st (white) row end, sc in next 4 row ends; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(14 sc)
4. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, sk ch-1, sc in
next sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; do not join, pl rnd marker. (11 sc)
5. Sk ch-1 and sl st, sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
6. Sc2tog, sc in rem 9 sc. (10 sc)


Begin stuffing leg, and continue stuffing every few rnds as you work.

7 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (10)
13. Sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (7 sc, 3 hdc)
14. Sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 3 sc. (10 sc)
15 – 19. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
20. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
21. Sl st loosely in next 6 sc; do not work in rem sc.
22. Sc in BL of next 7 sc; turn. (7 sc)
23. Sc in FL of next 7 sc; ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
24. Sk next sc, sc in BL of next 4 sc, sc2tog in BL; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
25. Sk next sc, sc in FL of next 2 sc, sc2tog in FL; FO, leaving long end for closing. (3
sc)
LEFT REAR LEG:
1. Ch 4 with black, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch; move around
to opposite side of ch and make 2 sc in next free lp, sc in next free lp, 2 sc in next free lp;
ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
2. Row 2 is RS. Sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc; FO. (10 sc)
3. With RS facing, join lamb color in BL of 1st sc, sc in BL of next 9 sc, ch 1, turn corner
and sk 1st (white) row end, sc in next 4 row ends; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(14 sc)
4. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, sk ch-1, sc in
next sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; do not join, pl rnd marker. (11 sc)
5. Sk ch-1 and sl st, sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
6. Sc2tog, sc in rem 9 sc. (10 sc)

Matilda LeMouton By Sue Pendleton

9


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