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London College of Fashion

UK academia at IFSCC Paris Congress

Renowned for its luxury
fashion and cosmetic
industries, France was a
befitting host of the 28th
IFSCC Congress in October
2014, and the city of lights,
Paris, provided the perfect
backdrop for the three day
cosmetic science extravaganza.
The topic of this year’s
congress was Cosmetic
Innovation for Beauty and
Well-Being and the event was
a great success, with attendees
from all over the world. For
the first time this year more
than 30% of the platform
and poster communications
originated from academia,
which underlines the strong
relationship between academic
research and innovation in the
cosmetic industry.
The scientific programme
was certainly impressive,
with 78 oral and 464 poster
communications divided into
six categories:
• Beauty & Life Science
• Beauty & Colours
• Beauty & Surface Shield
• Beauty & Society
 eauty & Protective Strategy
Within the Skin
• Beauty & Sensoriality
The event was also a
great opportunity for a team
of academics and alumni

The LCF delegates at the 2014
IFSCC Congress

from the London College of
Fashion’s BSc/MSc Cosmetic
Science course to present
some of the most successful
research projects undertaken
in the last couple of years.
The group of three graduates
and four academics delivered
one podium presentation
and five posters under the
watchful and constructive
guidance of LCF Professor in
Cosmetic Science, Dr Danka
Tamburic. In fact, of the seven
presentations/posters at the
2014 event from the UK, six
came from LCF.
Some of the research
projects had been carried out
in collaboration with the LCF
Erasmus partner universities
in Finland and France, which
is a strong testament to the
strength of the research
interests and networks of the
LCF team.
The team’s combined efforts
in writing and preparing for
the Congress was boosted
by the SCS Professor Tony
Naylor Memorial Bursary
Fund, enabling BSc Cosmetic
Science alumnae Carmen
Cheung and Petya Todorova,
and the Programme Director
Gabriela Daniels to attend the
Congress. We wish to thank
the SCS for this generous
The podium presentation
entitled Using Experimental
Design Approach to
Understand the Interactions
of Natural Oils and Waxes
in a Lipstick Base was
successfully presented by
Carmen Cheung, a 2013 LCF
graduate, now working for
Acheson & Acheson.

Carmen Cheung presenting.

After the Conference
Carmen said: “I had never
imagined I would attend
an event of such scale and
significance to the cosmetic
industry. I was fortunate to
have been selected to present
the paper that I had written
during my final year at London
College of Fashion and which
was completed during my
Erasmus funded stay at ITECH
in Lyon. Presenting in the
same category as researchers
from Kosé Corporation, Kao
Corporation, Chanel Research
& Technology and AmorePacific
felt surreal and overwhelming.
While it was slightly
intimidating presenting to the
audience of industry experts, I
managed to remain calm and
delivered my presentation.
I received a lot of positive
feedback, which made me feel
proud that I had accomplished
something like this shortly after
graduating in the summer. I am
extremely appreciative of the
SCS and its Tony Naylor Bursary
funding as the overall cost of
the Conference would have
otherwise prevented me from
attending and gaining such an
insightful experience.”
Petya Todorova, also a
2013 LCF graduate and now
a Development Chemist at

Left: SCS Bursary winners
(left to right) Petya Todorova,
Carmen Cheung & Gabriela Daniels
at the IFSCC 2014 closing ceremony

LF Beauty, presented a poster
in the Beauty and Surface
Shield category entitled
An In vivo Comparative
Study on Ageing Skin:
A Bio-Mimetic versus a
Traditional Approach to Skin
In Petya’s words: “The
research was done in Finland
at Laurea University of Applied
Sciences as part of my final
year project. The purpose of
my study was to investigate
whether using skin-identical
lipids in moisturisers is an
effective method for improving
skin hydration of women over
the age of 60. I would like to
acknowledge the help of my
co-authors Ritva Kurimo from
Laurea University, Peter GrantRoss from LCF and in particular
Professor Danka Tamburic, who
also encouraged me to submit
an abstract for the Congress.
The Congress was indeed
a fantastic and educational
experience and I cannot
express enough my gratitude
to the SCS for providing the
funding to attend.”
LCF’S Programme DIrector,
Science, Gabriela Daniels
presented a poster entitled
An Ex-Vivo Study of the
Effects of Co-Surfactants
and Depositional Materials
on Hair Colour Protection
produced in collaboration
with 2012 graduate Kristin
Katakami, now working as
a Development Chemist at
Laleham Healthcare. Gabriela
was looking at the wider
significance of the attendance
at this Conference.
“Having such a significant
presence at the Conference

was hugely important for
the LCF Science Programme
as it reassured us of the
contemporary relevance of
our curricula and projects, and
informed us of the research
directions that the industry and
other academia are taking,”
commented Gabriela.
The following three posters
also originated from the
LCF team:
An Ex Vivo Comparison
Study: The Effect of a Fatty
Acid Ester and a Cationic
Silicone Derivative on the
Protection of Hair Colour
from Washing and Heat
Styling Exposure
Presented by Dr Mustafa
Varcin, a Course Leader of
the MSc Cosmetic Science
at LCF. This work was done
in collaboration with LCF
graduate Brita Arendes, now
working for Active Concepts
Srl, Hamburg, Germany.
Optimistion of the Wax and
Oil Phases in a Conventional
Lipstick Using Mixture
Presented by Claire Ng, an
international alumnae, who
travelled all the way from
Malaysia for the occasion.
Clare is considering returning
to LCF to commence her PhD
in the near future.
An Ex Vivo Comparative
Study of the Tensile
Strengthening Efficacy of
Protein-Derived Actives on
Heavily Bleached Hair
Presented by Dr Maria
Labedzka, a previous Course
Leader of BSc Cosmetic

Science. Maria is currently a
consultant to the industry and
an Industrial Advisor for the
MSc Cosmetic Science course.
In addition to presenting
at the poster sessions, the
team took full advantage
of the Conference scientific
programme, attending
numerous presentations
and viewing the wealth of
posters from industry and
academia from across the
globe. Needless to say, we
also enjoyed the great cultural
programme and the fantastic
food for which our French
hosts are so famous.
Once again, a big thank
you to the SCS for helping us
achieve a noticeable presence
at the IFSCC congress in Paris!

Dr Maria Labedzka with
Dr Danka Tamburic (above) & Dr
Danka Tamburic and Petya (below)
in front of their posters

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