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DIY WOODWORKERS TOP TEN TIPS .pdf


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Title: DIY WOODWORKERS TOP TEN TIPS

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DIY  WOODWORKERS
FEATURING
TOP  TEN  
WOODWORKING  TIPS
By  Stuart  Gardner
First   eBook   Edition:  December  2015
www.DIYWOODWORKERS.com

Tip  1: Make   reusable   sanding  
blocks

• Assemble  the  sanding   blocks
• Glue   four  blocks   and  cork  pads  to   a  sheet  of  sandpaper.  
Then   cut   the   sandpaper   with  a   utility  knife.
• Foam  sanding   sponges   are   a  great   invention.  They   excel   at  
sanding   curved  surfaces   or  drywall-­‐taped  inside  corners,  but  
they're   a  bit   expensive  and  not   practical   for  sanding   large,  
flat   surfaces.  Make   your  own  reusable  sanding   blocks  for  
much  less.  Here's   how:
• Cut   six   blocks  from  scrap  3/4-­‐in.  plywood  for  each  
sandpaper   grit   you  commonly   use.   Make   them   2-­‐1/2  in.   x  4-­‐
3/4  in.  Spray  adhesive   on   both  a   square  of  cork  tile  and  10  of  
the   blocks.  (Buy  a   package  of  four  12-­‐in.  cork  tiles  at   a  home  
center.)  Stick   10  of  the   blocks   to  the  cork  and  cut   the   cork  
flush   with  a   utility  knife.  Then   spray  adhesive   on  a   sheet  of  
sandpaper   and  stick   on  six  of  the   blocks  cork  side   down  as  
shown.  Cut   the   sandpaper   flush   with  the   cork,  and   label   the  
blocks.
• When   you  wear  out   all   six   of  a   set   of  sanding   blocks,  soften  
the   adhesive  with  a   hair  dryer,  peel   off  the   old   sandpaper  
and  apply   new.

Tip  2: Make   repetitive  cuts  with   a  
1-­‐in.  crosscutting  stop  block
• Table  saw  stop  block
• Clamp  a  stop  block  to  the  table  saw  fence  just  short  of  
where  the  cutoff  stock  first  meets  the  blade.  Then  you  
can  make  crosscuts  without  binding  the  cutoff.
• Here's  an  old  tip  that's  worth  repeating.  When  you're  
crosscutting  on  a  table  saw,  set  the  cut  length  with  a  
block  clamped  to  the  fence.   Don't  ever use  the  fence  
directly.  That's  a  good  way  to  get  a  board  kicked  back  
right  at  you.  Ruptured  organs  and  broken  rib—or  
worse—are  a  very  real  possibility.
• Instead,  clamp  a  block  of  wood  to  the  fence  before  the  
blade.  Then  the  end  of  the  board  will  be  free   of  the  
fence  during  and  after  the  cut.  If  you  make  a  block  
that's  exactly  1  in.  thick,  you  can  set  the  fence   scale  at  
1  in.  greater  than  the  length  you're  after.  No  tricky  
fractions  involved.

Tip  3: Assemble  a   stair  
gauge/framing   square   cutting  
guide
• Stair  gauge/framing  square  cutting  guide
• Screw  the  stair  gauges  to  your  framing  square  and  
hold  it  against  your  board  to  make  right  angle  cuts.
• Stair  gauges  are  usually  used  to  lay  out  stair  jacks.  
You  clamp  them  to  a  carpenter's  square  to  match  
the  rise  and  run  of  a  stair  jack  and  then  mark  the  
notches.  But  if  you  put  them  both  on  the  same  
tongue  of  a  carpenter's  square,  the  combination  
makes  a  great  crosscut  guide  for  circular  saws.  Pick  
up  a  pair  for  less  than  $5  at  any  hardware  store  or  
home  center.  Clamp  the  square  in  place  so  it  won't  
slide  around  while  you're  cutting.  You  wouldn't  like  
that  one  bit.

Tip  4: Eliminate  stains  from  excess  
glue
• Tape  edges  before  gluing
• Apply  masking  tape  over  the  joint  and  then  cut  it  
so  that  the  edge  of  each  board  is  protected  from  
excess  glue.
• To  prevent  stains  caused  by  oozing  glue  along  
joints,  clamp  the  pieces  together  without  glue.  Put  
tape  on  the  joint,  then  cut  along  it  with  a  sharp  
blade.  Separate  the  pieces,  apply  the  glue  and  
clamp  them  together  again.  The  glue  will  ooze  onto  
the  tape,  not  the  wood.  Peel  off  the  tape  before  
the  glue  dries.

Tip  5: Make   layouts   with  a  
drafting  square

• Drafting  square  measurements
• Measuring  and  marking  layouts  on  boards  goes  
faster  and  easier  with  a  drafting  square.
• When  you  need  an  accurate  square  in  the  2-­‐ to  3-­‐
ft.  range,  your  options  are  limited.  Drywall  squares  
are  notoriously  inaccurate  and  cumbersome.  
Carpenter  squares  involve  that  nagging  hassle  of  
having  to  hook  them  onto  the  edge  of  your  
workpiece.  If  you  have  a  drafting  square  lying  
around,  drag  it  out  to  the  shop.  Or,  go  to  an  art  
supply  store  and  pick  one  up.  They're  very  accurate  
and  you'll  find  yourself  grabbing  it  nearly  as  often  
as  you  do  the  tape  measure.

Tip  6: Clamp   small  stuff  with  hot  
glue

• Photo  1:  Apply  the  hot  glue
• Squeeze  a  dab  of  hot  glue  on  a  pedestal  stick  and  
quickly  press  the  workpiece into  the  glue.

• Photo  2:  Shape  the  workpiece
• Shape  the  workpiece as  needed.  Then  snap  it  off  
the  pedestal.

• When  you  have  to  cut,  shape,  file,  sand  or  finish  
something  small,  reach  for  your  hot  glue  gun  and  
glue  the  piece  to  a  pedestal  stick.  The  hot  glue  will  
hold  just  about  anything  as  well  as  or  better  than  
any  clamp  ever  could—if  using  a  clamp  is  even  
possible.  When  your  project  is  complete,  try  to  pop  
it  loose  with  a  putty  knife,  but  don't  use  too  much  
force—you  might  tear  out  the  wood  or  break  the  
piece.
• You  have  two  options  for  breaking  the  grip:  cold  
and  heat.  First,  try  sticking  the  workpiece into  the  
freezer  for  an  hour  or  so.  Frozen  glue  will  usually  
give  way  with  very  little  force.  If  that  doesn't  work,  
try  a  hair  dryer  to  soften  the  glue.  Still  stuck?  
Reach  for  the  heat  gun.  But  warm  the  piece  slowly  
and  from  a  distance  to  avoid  scorching  the  wood  or  
damaging  the  finish


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