2006 Altima Aux Input (PDF)

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2006 Altima Aux Input
This mod describes how to add an aux input to the stock, non-Bose, AM/FM/CD head unit on
2006 Altimas (model number 28185 ZB10A, ref. number CQ-JN2461X). It may also work for
other head units on 2002-2006 Altimas.
The mod uses the CD mode of the head unit, so you’ll need to have a CD in and playing. If
nothing is plugged into the aux input, CD mode operates normally. If a device is plugged in, the
CD audio is disconnected and you hear the device. The volume control and equalizer still work
as before.
This mod is based on a mod on MP3Car.com by thanatos106 (see
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-audio/68140-aux-oem-radio-nissan.html). His mod is for
a different head unit and requires more disassembly, but the soldering is a little easier.
The mod requires opening up the head unit, cutting circuit board traces, and soldering to small
pads. It will certainly void your warranty, so Nissan won’t help you if you damage your head
unit. Please read through all the instructions before beginning, and do not attempt the mod if you
aren’t comfortable with any step.
I chose to mount my aux input jack on my transmission finisher, between the hazard switch and
the power socket. If you want to use a different location, you may need to use longer cables and
remove more panels from the dashboard. Be aware that longer cables will be more susceptible to
noise. I only used 3 ½ feet, and I have not experienced problems.
Potential sources of noise are:
1. Ground loops – Possible if you use the power socket to charge or run your device while
listening to it.
2. The CD player – The sound from the CD player will bleed over a little into your aux input
because the signals run in the same cable. I can faintly hear the CD if I have a cable plugged
into the aux input, but no device on the other end. I don’t hear anything once I plug in a
device. If you have problems, just play a CD of silence when you want to use the aux input.

I cannot be held responsible for your use of these instructions, and make no warranty or
guarantee that the mod will work as described for your head unit.
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0
United States License. To view a copy of this license, visit
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/us/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171
Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.
Finally, on with the mod.
Page 1 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

Tools and Parts

3 ½ feet of 4 conductor shielded audio cable
o For maximum noise immunity, the cable should have a layer of foil or a tightly-knit
braided shield
o If necessary, you can use a pair of 2 conductor shielded audio cables scavenged from
old headphones
Wire strippers
3.5mm (1/8 inch) stereo audio jack (must be “closed circuit,” i.e. will pass through a signal if
nothing is plugged into it)
o DO NOT use a standard 3 pin “open circuit” stereo audio jack. It will not work. I
recommend you use Radio Shack part number 274-0246.

Male-to-male 3.5mm stereo audio cable to connect your device to the jack
Set of male and female connectors with at least 5 pins
o I used DB9s because I had them around
Crimper for the connector pins, if necessary
o Needle-nose pliers will probably work in a pinch
Philips screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing (optional)
Cable ties
Duct tape or other strong, heat-resistant tape
Hot glue (optional)
Soldering iron and solder
Page 2 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

Masking tape
Drill and appropriate drill bit for the aux jack’s mounting hole
Hobby knife, or small rotary tool grinding bit
A multimeter will be handy for double-checking your work

Some of the following pictures are small, but they’re high-resolution, so just zoom in if you need
more detail. I’ve highlighted screws you’ll need to remove with red circles.
1. Remove cluster lid C from the dashboard by pulling it straight out. Note that I left the
connector attached. If you don’t, you’ll need to clear an SRS trouble code.

Page 3 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

2. Remove the front air control by removing 4 screws.

3. Remove cluster lid D by pulling it straight out.

Page 4 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

4. Unplug the connectors on the back of the head unit using the flathead screwdriver to release
the clips (the antenna plug has no clip).

5. Remove the head unit by removing 4 screws.

Page 5 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

6. If you would like to mount the audio jack on the transmission finisher, remove the finisher by
pulling it up, starting at the cup holder end. I was able to move cluster lid C and the front air
control out of the way, but I had to put the Altima in first gear and set the parking brake to
pull the finisher back enough to get it out. I’m not sure how easy this would be with a
manual transmission.

7. Unplug the connectors for the hazard switch and the power socket.

8. Cut the 3 ½ feet of audio cable into a 6 inch section and a 3 foot section.

Page 6 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

9. Strip and solder the wires from one end of the 6 inch cable to the audio jack as follows,
making note of which wire color connects to which pin. Obviously your colors may vary
from mine.

If you’re using a pair of 2 conductor cables, run the left signals in one cable, the right signals
in the other, and solder both cables’ shields to the shield pin. Make sure you don’t mix up
the left and right signal cables at any point.
10. Crimp or solder the pins for the male connector to the wires on the other end of the 6 inch
cable. You should have something like this.

Page 7 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

11. Insert the male pins into the male connector housing.

12. Crimp or solder the pins for the female connector to the wires on one end of the 3 foot cable,
making sure to match the same order as the male side. When the cables are plugged together,
you should have something like this.

13. Wrap tape around the audio jack so there are no exposed connections. Use a cable tie to
make sure the tape does not unwrap when the car gets hot. If you have housings for your
male and female connectors, use them, otherwise, tape them up too.

Page 8 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

14. Time to disassemble the head unit. Start with the left and right mounting brackets.

15. Remove the side and top screws holding the heatsink. Then pull the heatsink straight up.
There is thermal paste on the right rear section where the heatsink touches the amplifier IC.
If you scrape off a lot of thermal paste, be sure to add more before reassembling.

Page 9 of 18
© 2009 Jarod Prosise. Some rights reserved. Revision 1/7/2009.

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